Japanese denim

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History

The 70s of the last century were marked by a massive denim rush not only in Western countries, but also in Japan. It was during this period that the world's jeans manufacturers moved away from their usual production technology, abandoning the shuttle-type looms, which tirelessly puffed in the workshops of Cone Mills (a large-scale denim manufacturer, including for Levi's ). An alternative is the new, more modern and cost-effective progectile looms. They made it possible to obtain fabric much wider than before, and significantly reduce the number of workers, which was also beneficial to the manufacturer. Thus, the denim production process is cheaper how we can look on this blog stylejeanswear.com, cut became modern, everyone is happy. But the “that” vintage denim still does not leave indifferent the world community of jeans connoisseurs.


So, let's move on. End of the 80s. Namely, 1988 was marked by the appearance of the new Japanese brand Denime. Its founder was a certain Yoshiyuki Hayashi (Yoshiyuki Hayashi), who got the idea to bring back to life those classic jeans of the 50s, keeping all the traditions in their tailoring and fabric (required hard, rough, dark denim). While looking for a manufacturer, Yoshiyuki met Masahiro Sato, the owner of the Shinya textile factory, who suggested that he use the above shuttle loom. In the end, after restoring the pre-war equipment, a series of trial and error, Sato provided Hayashi with exactly the right denim that Hayashi had dreamed of.

And if for several years in a row such denim was produced in small batches for a certain narrow circle of admirers, then since the mid-90s it has become the most popular material, not only in Japan, but also far beyond its borders. Indicative is the fact that today Levi's Vintage Clothing produces most of its products in Japan, trusting the special approach of the Japanese to denim and their high professionalism.

Fabric and technology

The fabric is, in fact, the most important element of quality Japanese jeans.. This is one of the aspects why Japanese denim is so highly valued in the world. The fact is that cotton fibers come in very different lengths, therefore, in the production of fabrics such a pattern has formed that the longer the fiber, the better the quality of the fabric will be. Japanese denim uses high-quality long-fiber Zimbabwean cotton (approximately 30-70 mm). As a result, the fabric is more dense and soft to the touch. Another secret of the density of Japanese denim is the spindle (ring) spinning of cotton thread. With the help of special machines, cotton is pulled into a ribbon and twisted, which at times strengthens all the yarn. As a result of such spinning, it turns out that cherished Japanese denim, heterogeneous in thickness, moreover, this fact is successfully used for commercial purposes, turning flaws into advantages.

When we mention Japanese denim, we immediately mean such a definition as selvedge (someone says “salvage”, some “salvage”). This term refers to one of the features of high quality denim. This is the same red hem that is present in the inner seams of jeans. This edge of the fabric was obtained by working on old shuttle-type looms, which cut the fabric so that it did not unwind, forming a red edge. Such an element is today very highly valued among denim lovers and is to some extent a decorative element that clearly indicates the quality of production. However, to this day, the world's jeans manufacturers use not only the red delay, but also the hem of other colors (Lee marked their products in blue or green, Wrangler - in yellow).

Colour
Another distinguishing feature of Japanese jeans, you guessed it, is their unique color, which we call indigo. For this specific shade, saturation is characteristic, in some places a certain unevenness. Such heterogeneity in coloring is caused by the fact that natural white and dyed blue threads are randomly intertwined. It should be noted that in the production of Japanese denim, it is the thread that is dyed, and not the finished denim. Threads are twisted into ropes and lowered into large vats with paint diluted in them. For complete staining, approximately 25-30 dipping cycles are required. Denim is dyed directly by the indigo itself. The name of the natural dye comes from the plant, which was referred to as "indigofer", from the pigment of which the indigo dye was actually extracted.

 

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